Fresh
Lactic curd fresh
- Milk
- Cow
- Aging
- 0-7 days
- Texture
- Soft
- Region
- Lowland dairy valleys
Set slowly with very little rennet, drained in cloth and salted lightly. Tastes of the milk it was made from and almost nothing else.
What to look for. Clean acidity with no bitterness at the back. A weeping, slumped tub means it was drained hot.
Fresh
Drained goat log
- Milk
- Goat
- Aging
- 3-14 days
- Texture
- Soft
- Region
- Dry limestone uplands
A hand-ladled log, sometimes rolled in ash, that firms and sharpens across a fortnight. Sold at three ages by shops that know their customers.
What to look for. A fine wrinkle starting at the ends. Slick, wet skin means it sat in its own moisture.
Fresh
Whey ricotta-style
- Milk
- Mixed herd
- Aging
- 1-3 days
- Texture
- Soft
- Region
- Mediterranean coastal plains
Recooked from the whey of a harder make, so it exists because something else was made first. Sweet, grainy and very perishable.
What to look for. Loose grain that holds its shape on a spoon. Rubbery means it was cooked too hard.
Bloomy-rind
Bloomy disc
- Milk
- Cow
- Aging
- 3-6 weeks
- Texture
- Soft
- Region
- Temperate river plains
The classic white-coated disc: mold ripens it from the outside in, so a young one has a chalky line down the middle and an old one has none.
What to look for. An even, close coat with no gray. Ammonia on the nose means it is past, not ripe.
Bloomy-rind
Triple-cream round
- Milk
- Cow
- Aging
- 4-8 weeks
- Texture
- Soft
- Region
- Rich pasture lowlands
Cream added back to the milk before setting. Rich enough that most people eat a third of what they intended to.
What to look for. A paste that slumps but does not run. A sunken top means the rind collapsed early.
Bloomy-rind
Ash-lined goat pyramid
- Milk
- Goat
- Aging
- 2-5 weeks
- Texture
- Soft
- Region
- Dry limestone uplands
A truncated pyramid dusted with ash before the mold takes, which slows the rind and lets the paste catch up.
What to look for. Gray-blue bloom over the ash, even on the corners. Cracked corners mean it dried unevenly.
Washed-rind
Washed-rind square
- Milk
- Cow
- Aging
- 6-10 weeks
- Texture
- Semi-soft
- Region
- Northern monastic valleys
Washed two or three times a week until the rind turns orange and tacky. Smells far more assertive than it tastes.
What to look for. A supple, slightly sticky rind. A dry, cracked rind means the washing stopped early.
Washed-rind
Brine-washed wheel
- Milk
- Cow
- Aging
- 3-6 months
- Texture
- Semi-soft
- Region
- Cool maritime hills
A larger washed format that holds its shape for months. The paste goes translucent at the edge as it ages.
What to look for. Even color under the rind. A dark band more than a few millimeters deep means it was held too warm.
Washed-rind
Washed-rind sheep tomme
- Milk
- Sheep
- Aging
- 8-16 weeks
- Texture
- Semi-soft
- Region
- Southern mountain foothills
Sheep milk under a washed rind: fattier paste, so the wash reads as savory rather than barnyard.
What to look for. A close, fine paste with no mechanical openings. Pinholes mean gas where none should be.
Blue
Natural-rind blue
- Milk
- Cow
- Aging
- 3-6 months
- Texture
- Crumbly
- Region
- Cave-rich limestone country
Pierced twice to let air to the mold, then left to grow its own rind. The blue runs in seams rather than spots.
What to look for. Veining that follows the piercing lines. Gray-brown mush at the veins means it over-ripened.
Blue
Sheep's-milk blue
- Milk
- Sheep
- Aging
- 4-8 months
- Texture
- Crumbly
- Region
- Southern high plateaux
Higher fat and higher salt than a cow blue, which is why it reads sweet before it reads sharp.
What to look for. White paste, not yellow, with a clean salt finish. Bitterness usually means young milk and old salt.
Blue
Creamy blue log
- Milk
- Cow
- Aging
- 8-12 weeks
- Texture
- Soft
- Region
- Lowland dairy valleys
A soft blue made in a small format so it ripens fast. Spreadable at the edge by six weeks.
What to look for. A soft edge and a firmer center. Uniformly runny means it has gone.
Semi-hard
Mountain tomme
- Milk
- Cow
- Aging
- 2-6 months
- Texture
- Semi-hard
- Region
- Mid-altitude alpine slopes
The everyday wheel of a mountain make: pressed, brined and turned, eaten young by the people who made it.
What to look for. A dry, dusty gray rind and an elastic paste. A greasy rind means it was wrapped too soon.
Semi-hard
Farmhouse cloth-bound
- Milk
- Cow
- Aging
- 6-18 months
- Texture
- Semi-hard
- Region
- Maritime grass country
Bound in cloth and larded, so the rind breathes and the paste dries slowly. Ages into something brothy rather than sharp.
What to look for. Cloth still bonded to the rind. Lifting cloth means moisture got underneath.
Semi-hard
Goat tomme
- Milk
- Goat
- Aging
- 3-8 months
- Texture
- Semi-hard
- Region
- Dry limestone uplands
A pressed goat wheel, which is rarer than it should be: most goat milk goes to fresh formats because it pays sooner.
What to look for. Bright white paste with a firm break. Yellowing under the rind means oxidation.
Semi-hard
Brined sheep wheel
- Milk
- Sheep
- Aging
- 3-9 months
- Texture
- Semi-hard
- Region
- Eastern steppe pastures
Held in brine through its aging rather than salted dry, which keeps the paste close and the flavor direct.
What to look for. Firm, close paste with no rind to speak of. Crumbling at the edge means the brine was too strong.
Hard / alpine
Alpine eye wheel
- Milk
- Cow
- Aging
- 6-14 months
- Texture
- Hard
- Region
- High alpine valleys
Cooked curd pressed into a large wheel; a second fermentation opens round eyes as it warms in the cellar.
What to look for. Round, shiny eyes and a slight sweetness. Splits and cracks mean the eyes opened too fast.
Hard / alpine
Alpine grating wheel
- Milk
- Cow
- Aging
- 18-36 months
- Texture
- Hard
- Region
- High alpine valleys
The long-aged end of the family. Dry enough to grate, with the crystals that come of protein breaking down over years.
What to look for. Crunch that dissolves, not grit that stays. A soapy finish means it was aged damp.
Hard / alpine
Aged sheep grating
- Milk
- Sheep
- Aging
- 10-24 months
- Texture
- Hard
- Region
- Southern high plateaux
A hard sheep wheel made to be grated over food rather than eaten in a wedge. Salt-forward by design.
What to look for. A clean, even break. Ammonia at the rind means it was held too long in plastic.
Pasta filata
Fresh stretched curd
- Milk
- Buffalo
- Aging
- 1-3 days
- Texture
- Elastic
- Region
- Warm coastal wetlands
Curd ripened to the right acidity, then stretched in hot water and torn into balls. The texture is decided in half a minute.
What to look for. A thin skin that tears to layers, and milky liquid when cut. Squeaky and tight means it was stretched too cold.
Pasta filata
Aged stretched wheel
- Milk
- Cow
- Aging
- 4-12 months
- Texture
- Semi-hard
- Region
- Southern lowland plains
The same stretch, then shaped, brined and hung to dry for months. Layers stay visible in the paste.
What to look for. Visible grain when you break it along the stretch. A rubbery, uniform paste means it was over-worked.
Pasta filata
Smoked braided curd
- Milk
- Cow
- Aging
- 1-2 weeks
- Texture
- Elastic
- Region
- Southern lowland plains
Braided while warm and cold-smoked. A format built for a market stall rather than a cellar.
What to look for. Smoke on the outside only, in a thin band. Smoke all the way through means heat, not time.
Natural-rind
Cloth-bound territorial
- Milk
- Cow
- Aging
- 9-24 months
- Texture
- Crumbly
- Region
- Maritime grass country
The long-aged crumbling style: pressed hard, cloth-bound, and left until the paste breaks rather than bends.
What to look for. A break that flakes along a plane. Bendy paste at eighteen months means it was pressed light.
Natural-rind
Leaf-wrapped natural rind
- Milk
- Mixed herd
- Aging
- 2-5 months
- Texture
- Semi-soft
- Region
- Wooded upland valleys
Wrapped in leaves for the cellar, which is a handling decision that became a flavor one.
What to look for. Leaves still pliable and bonded. Dry, lifting leaves mean the cellar ran dry.
Natural-rind
Cave-aged natural tomme
- Milk
- Mixed herd
- Aging
- 5-12 months
- Texture
- Semi-hard
- Region
- Cave-rich limestone country
Brushed and turned in a cave, with whatever the cave grows allowed to form the rind. No two batches match.
What to look for. A mottled gray rind with no bald patches. Orange slime means it turned into a washed rind by accident.