Natural-rind blue

Pierced twice to let air to the mold, then left to grow its own rind. The blue runs in seams rather than spots.

MilkCow

TextureCrumbly

RegionCave-rich limestone country

Aging3–6 months

What to look for

Veining that follows the piercing lines. Gray-brown mush at the veins means it over-ripened.

Higher fat and higher salt than a cow blue, which is why it reads sweet before it reads sharp.

A soft blue made in a small format so it ripens fast. Spreadable at the edge by six weeks.