Drained goat log

A hand-ladled log, sometimes rolled in ash, that firms and sharpens across a fortnight. Sold at three ages by shops that know their customers.

MilkGoat

TextureSoft

RegionDry limestone uplands

Aging3–14 days

What to look for

A fine wrinkle starting at the ends. Slick, wet skin means it sat in its own moisture.

Set slowly with very little rennet, drained in cloth and salted lightly. Tastes of the milk it was made from…

Recooked from the whey of a harder make, so it exists because something else was made first. Sweet, grainy and…